fix(tours): refresh the wanderer watch after a fixed token and truly disable its switch offline

The watch row only re-read its state when the connection came or went, so after
a passing connection test or a newly saved token it kept saying "Token refused"
until a reload. The connection card now hands it a key built from the saved
connection and its last check, and the row re-reads the watch whenever that
changes.

Without a connection the switch was only dimmed: the button stayed in the tab
order and was announced as active. ToggleSwitch gains a disabled prop that
disables the button and marks it aria-disabled, and the reason stays reachable
through a focusable wrapper carrying the tooltip.

client/src/components/Settings/useWandererConnection.ts

@@ -129,6 +129,13 @@ export function useWandererConnection() {
     saved?.lastCheckedAt && saved.lastCheckOk === false && saved.lastCheckError
       ? errorText(saved.lastCheckError)
       : null;
+  /**
+   * Changes whenever the server's view of the connection does: connecting,
+   * disconnecting, a saved token (which clears the last check) or a test that
+   * stored a new result. The watch row re-reads itself on it, since each of
+   * those can lift or set its "token refused" state.
+   */
+  const checkKey = `${connected}|${saved?.lastCheckedAt ?? ''}|${saved?.lastCheckOk ?? ''}`;
 
   return {
     url,
@@ -145,6 +152,7 @@ export function useWandererConnection() {
     tokenInvalid,
     canSave,
     lastCheck,
+    checkKey,
     save,
     test,
     disconnect,