fix(maps): reduce Google Places API quota usage with persistent caching

P0 — stop the bleeding:
- Honor place.image_url in MapView and TripPlannerPage to skip redundant fetchPhoto calls
- Trim Place Details field mask (drop reviews/editorialSummary from default; new getPlaceDetailsExpanded for inspector)
- Admin toggle places_photos_enabled (default ON) to kill Google photo fetches under quota pressure; Wikimedia unaffected
- Return { photoUrl: null } instead of 204 so client handles disabled state cleanly

P1 — structural fix:
- New placePhotoCache service: persistent disk cache at uploads/photos/google/<sha1>.jpg, atomic writes, stampede dedup via in-flight Map
- Migrations 105-107: google_place_photo_meta table, place_details_cache table, backfill signed Google URLs to stable proxy URLs
- getPlacePhoto rewrites to fetch image bytes directly, store on disk, return /api/maps/place-photo/:id/bytes proxy URL
- Stable proxy URLs written to places.image_url — survive container restarts, no expiry
- New GET /api/maps/place-photo/:placeId/bytes route serving cached files with long-lived Cache-Control
- Place Details DB row cache with 7-day TTL; ?refresh=1 escape hatch
- photoService fast-path: proxy URLs bypass the mapsApi round-trip and go straight to urlToBase64

Bug fixes:
- MapView now requests base64 thumbs for places with proxy image_url (markers were showing color fallback)
- createPlaceIcon accepts /api/maps/place-photo/ URLs as interim fallback while thumb generates
- setSelectedAssignmentId ReferenceError in mobile day-detail handler (use selectAssignment)
- Remove redundant decodeURIComponent on already-decoded Express route param
- Use SHA1 hash for disk filenames to prevent coords:lat:lng pseudo-ID collisions
- Add checkSsrf guard to Wikimedia byte fetch
- Tighten migration 107 LIKE filter to avoid rewriting manually-pasted Google image URLs
- Validate enabled is boolean on PUT /admin/places-photos
- Drop aggressive iconCache.clear() on every thumb arrival

Observability:
- googleFetch() wrapper counts and debug-logs every outbound Google API call with running total

client/src/pages/TripPlannerPage.tsx

@@ -28,6 +28,7 @@ import { useTranslation } from '../i18n'
 import { addonsApi, accommodationsApi, authApi, tripsApi, assignmentsApi, mapsApi } from '../api/client'
 import { accommodationRepo } from '../repo/accommodationRepo'
 import { offlineDb } from '../db/offlineDb'
+import { useAuthStore } from '../store/authStore'
 import ConfirmDialog from '../components/shared/ConfirmDialog'
 import { useResizablePanels } from '../hooks/useResizablePanels'
 import { useTripWebSocket } from '../hooks/useTripWebSocket'
@@ -75,6 +76,7 @@ export default function TripPlannerPage(): React.ReactElement | null {
   const toast = useToast()
   const { t, language } = useTranslation()
   const { settings } = useSettingsStore()
+  const placesPhotosEnabled = useAuthStore(s => s.placesPhotosEnabled)
   const trip = useTripStore(s => s.trip)
   const days = useTripStore(s => s.days)
   const places = useTripStore(s => s.places)
@@ -178,7 +180,7 @@ export default function TripPlannerPage(): React.ReactElement | null {
 
   // Start photo fetches during splash screen so images are ready when map mounts
   useEffect(() => {
-    if (isLoading || !places || places.length === 0) return
+    if (isLoading || !places || places.length === 0 || !placesPhotosEnabled) return
     for (const p of places) {
       if (p.image_url) continue
       const cacheKey = p.google_place_id || p.osm_id || `${p.lat},${p.lng}`
@@ -900,7 +902,7 @@ export default function TripPlannerPage(): React.ReactElement | null {
                   </div>
                   <div style={{ flex: 1, overflow: 'auto' }}>
                     {mobileSidebarOpen === 'left'
-                      ? <DayPlanSidebar tripId={tripId} trip={trip} days={days} places={places} categories={categories} assignments={assignments} selectedDayId={selectedDayId} selectedPlaceId={selectedPlaceId} selectedAssignmentId={selectedAssignmentId} onSelectDay={(id) => { handleSelectDay(id); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onPlaceClick={(placeId, assignmentId) => { handlePlaceClick(placeId, assignmentId); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onReorder={handleReorder} onUpdateDayTitle={handleUpdateDayTitle} onAssignToDay={handleAssignToDay} onRouteCalculated={(r) => { if (r) { setRoute(r.coordinates); setRouteInfo({ distance: r.distanceText, duration: r.durationText }) } }} reservations={reservations} onAddReservation={(dayId) => { setEditingReservation(null); tripActions.setSelectedDay(dayId); setShowReservationModal(true); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onAddPlace={() => { setEditingPlace(null); setShowPlaceForm(true); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onDayDetail={(day) => { setShowDayDetail(day); setSelectedPlaceId(null); setSelectedAssignmentId(null); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} accommodations={tripAccommodations} onNavigateToFiles={() => { setMobileSidebarOpen(null); handleTabChange('dateien') }} onExpandedDaysChange={setExpandedDayIds} pushUndo={pushUndo} canUndo={canUndo} lastActionLabel={lastActionLabel} onUndo={handleUndo} />
+                      ? <DayPlanSidebar tripId={tripId} trip={trip} days={days} places={places} categories={categories} assignments={assignments} selectedDayId={selectedDayId} selectedPlaceId={selectedPlaceId} selectedAssignmentId={selectedAssignmentId} onSelectDay={(id) => { handleSelectDay(id); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onPlaceClick={(placeId, assignmentId) => { handlePlaceClick(placeId, assignmentId); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onReorder={handleReorder} onUpdateDayTitle={handleUpdateDayTitle} onAssignToDay={handleAssignToDay} onRouteCalculated={(r) => { if (r) { setRoute(r.coordinates); setRouteInfo({ distance: r.distanceText, duration: r.durationText }) } }} reservations={reservations} onAddReservation={(dayId) => { setEditingReservation(null); tripActions.setSelectedDay(dayId); setShowReservationModal(true); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onAddPlace={() => { setEditingPlace(null); setShowPlaceForm(true); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onDayDetail={(day) => { setShowDayDetail(day); setSelectedPlaceId(null); selectAssignment(null); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} accommodations={tripAccommodations} onNavigateToFiles={() => { setMobileSidebarOpen(null); handleTabChange('dateien') }} onExpandedDaysChange={setExpandedDayIds} pushUndo={pushUndo} canUndo={canUndo} lastActionLabel={lastActionLabel} onUndo={handleUndo} />
                       : <PlacesSidebar tripId={tripId} places={places} categories={categories} assignments={assignments} selectedDayId={selectedDayId} selectedPlaceId={selectedPlaceId} onPlaceClick={(placeId) => { handlePlaceClick(placeId); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onAddPlace={() => { setEditingPlace(null); setShowPlaceForm(true); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onAssignToDay={handleAssignToDay} onEditPlace={(place) => { setEditingPlace(place); setEditingAssignmentId(null); setShowPlaceForm(true); setMobileSidebarOpen(null) }} onDeletePlace={(placeId) => handleDeletePlace(placeId)} days={days} isMobile onCategoryFilterChange={setMapCategoryFilter} onPlacesFilterChange={setMapPlacesFilter} pushUndo={pushUndo} />
                     }
                   </div>