fix(planner): give narrow screens one panel at a time, and unclip the public language picker

Three reports from the same week, all "the layout is in my way".

#2247 — the Plan tab shows both side panels from 768px up, unconditionally.
A Pixel 10 Pro Fold unfolded is ~860 CSS px, so 340 + 300 of panel left the
map a 200px strip; those same widths became fit padding, shrinking the
framing window to 140px and opening the camera two zoom levels out over half
of East Asia. The floating POI/compass cluster is centred on the viewport at
z-25, which at that width put it on top of both collapse tabs (z-1 inside
z-20 containers) and on the Add Place/Activity button — and its pills set
pointer-events: auto, so it ate the taps meant for them. The resize handles
are mousedown-only, so a touch user could not narrow anything either.

Between 768 and 1023px only one panel is open now, the day plan first, the
places list one tap away — the Google Maps shape the reporter asked for. The
collapse flags stay the wide-layout state, so a fold back restores what was
there, and a marker tap reopening "both" no longer re-crowds the screen. The
control cluster centres on the corridor the panels leave (the formula
PlaceInspector and DayDetailPanel already use), the tabs finally have
accessible names, the dead resize handles go, and a panel dragged to 520px on
a desktop is clamped so the map keeps 360px without touching the stored
width. computeMapViewport refuses to frame for less than a third of the box,
so absurd padding can never pick the zoom again.

#2248 — the public journey hero clips its own overflow to keep its
decorative circles from widening the document, which also amputated the
language menu at the hero's bottom edge: 8 of 23 locales, the rest
unreachable. Both share pages inlined the same menu, so it is one component
now, portalled to the body and anchored to its trigger the way CustomSelect
is, with a height cap and its own scroll. It closes on Escape and on an
outside click, which it never did, and `zh-TW` stops labelling itself 简体中文.

#2249 — the note row's pencil/trash pill is absolutely positioned over the
row's own reorder chevrons, and a coarse-pointer `opacity: 1 !important`
pinned it permanently visible on tablets. On a mouse it was no better: the
chevrons are revealed on hover, which is exactly when the opaque pill covers
them, so note reordering has never been clickable on any pointer. The pill is
gone; the row opens the note the way the phone shell already does, and delete
lives in that dialog behind the same confirmation. A link in the note body
keeps its own tap, on both shells.

Closes #2247
Closes #2248
Closes #2249

client/e2e/ipad-scroll-1432.spec.ts

@@ -41,6 +41,10 @@ test('#1432 iPad: places list is scrollable, not draggable', async ({ page }) =>
   }
   await page.reload()
   await expect(page.locator('.leaflet-container')).toBeVisible({ timeout: 20_000 })
+
+  // An iPad is inside the 768-1023px band, where only one side panel is open at a
+  // time so the map keeps a usable width (#2247). The places list is one tap away.
+  await page.getByRole('button', { name: 'Places' }).click()
   await expect(page.getByText('Place 1').first()).toBeVisible({ timeout: 20_000 })
 
   // The context must really be the one from the bug report: coarse pointer, desktop
@@ -74,6 +78,8 @@ test('#1432 iPad: places list is scrollable, not draggable', async ({ page }) =>
   })
   expect(['1', 'absent']).toContain(arrowOpacity)
 
-  // 4. The iPad must still get the desktop two-pane layout — isMobile stayed width-based.
+  // 4. The iPad must still get the desktop shell — isMobile stayed width-based. One
+  //    panel at a time (#2247), so opening Places closed the day plan.
   await expect(page.locator('.leaflet-container')).toBeVisible()
+  await expect(page.getByRole('button', { name: 'Plan' })).toBeVisible()
 })